This is Bath -- Chef and wine examiner Linda Vijeh talks wins from Eastern Europe. I am of an age, sadly, to recall Bull's Blood, a famous Hungarian wine, much loved during the early 1970s by the cheap and cheerful brigade. This is unfortunately no longer the case, where a bottle will now require you to stump up something in the region of £11. Amid the recent furore over the fear of an influx of Bulgarians and Romanians into the UK this year, as Monty Python would say, I always like to look on the bright side of life, especially where wine is concerned. Not previously known for producing wines of any great quality, both Romania and Bulgaria, along with other Eastern European countries, have made every effort to up their game in the last few years. There was a distinct shift away from using indigenous grape varieties such as Mavrud and Rubin, mostly unheard of over here, and often unpronounceable. However, with a continuing interest in new discoveries, wine lovers are beginning to explore with more open minds. With an eye to the Western European market, as their ties to Russia begin to loosen a little, canny Eastern European winemakers have moved towards significant plantings of old familiar favourites, Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnaym often mixing the old and new varieties into acceptable, palatable blends. Whilst the quality of most Bulgarian and Romanian wines have yet to match up to the finest on offer from Spain, Italy or France, there is much to be said for those of us trying to eke out our hard earned cash a little further, in experimenting with their wines; both countries are of course now popular destinations for second home buyers. Good for quaffing with a moderate degree of gay abandon, even the best of these won't break the bank, and if you are looking for something a little different, they may just be the ticket. Available at most major supermarkets, or online. BULGARIA I read with interest that in the 1990s Bulgaria's Cabernet Sauvignon was Sainsbury's best selling wine, and then it all went downhill, but only for a while. Here's a few more to look out for. Domaine Boyar – Deer Point Cabernet Sauvignon, 2012 - £6.75 Discovery Series Merlot, 2012 - blackberry, plum, cassis - £6.99 Domaine Boyar, 2012 Peach Garden Chardonnay, Thracian Valley £6.99, Château de Val Bessa Valley, Eniro stocked by Waitrose. £10 Edoardo Miroglio seems to be a name to watch, producing a wide selection of quality wines in the £10-£20 range. Try the 2009 EM Pinot Noir, Thracian Valley at £13.95 Castra Rubra Version Conception 2009 Conception is a wine, born from the perfect combination of three grapes; Cabernet Sauvignon, Mavrud and Syrah. The aromas of blackberries, typical of the three types of grape, complement one another and create a feeling of exceptional balance in the taste. Temptation 2009 Temptation is an extremely mighty wine where two grapes of Cabernet Sauvignon and Mavrud are combined and complement one another in a unique way. The blackberry aroma of the Mavrud combined with the pepper tones of Cabernet pass into a memorising finish. Version Plaisir Divin 2009 – Cabernet Sauvignon Plaisir Divin Cabernet Sauvignon is a twin selection from our own vineyards in the village of Pravoslaven. The wine is distinguished for its strong body, balanced oak, mild and harmonious finish. Version Plaisir Divin 2009 – Syrah Plaisir Divin Syrah is a wine with a dense well-settled down colour and an aroma of cherries and spices. The body is smooth and well-structured offering a classical representation of a European style of Syrah. Diverse Sauvignon Blanc 2010 Diverse Sauvignon Blanc is an interesting wine with a well developed grassy aroma of nettle, touches of citrus fruits, passion fruit and grapefruit, which is also savoured in the prolonged and memorising finish. Diverse Chardonnay 2010 Diverse Chardonnay is an elegant wine, with a pleasant sporty freshness and delicate oak flavour which is integrated in a young body. Damianitza Run by magazine publisher Philip Harmandjiev, who came as a temporary manager and got hooked. The winery is in the warm Struma Valley in the southwest, where local broad-leaved Melnik reigns. Merlot- based Redark was one of Bulgaria's first icon wines, and No Man's Land (especially the vibrant rosé made from broad-leaved Melnik) is consistently good. Uniqato is the label to seek out for benchmark examples of local Rubin and early Melnik. Logodaj Also located in the warm Struma valley. The winemaker has been very much influenced by his time in Pomerol with his Flagship Hypnose Reserve, but is also passionate about local varieties especially early Melnik (actually across of broad leaved Melnik with Valdiguie) and Rubin, making some of the country's best examples of both. Sarah Sarah A really garagiste producer, working with parcels of carefully selected grapes and rented winery space. Owner Ivo Genowski is a Bulgarian based in Germany, who ultimately plans his own vineyards but as he points out "planting vines is almost like getting married - mistakes are hard to change and last along time." Whites are decent but the real stars are the reds: brambly yet fine Bin 41 Merlot and gorgeous Privat - a harmonious, intense and lingering blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Mavrud. Ivo's luscious snow wine made from frozen Mavrud grapes has to be one of the most unusual wines I've ever tasted, but delicious. Terra Tangra Bulgaria's only certified organic vineyards so far. Owner Emil Raychev was previously a vegetable grower and now has 300 ha on the slopes of the famous Sakar Mountains. Terra Tangra's wines are well made and always show the winery's hallmark rich, ripe softness, though they tend to have high alcohol. Best is the single barrel selection, but also look out for the velvety, ripe Merlot Reserve from Zelas.co.uk Rumelia A new investment near Panagyurishte by a textile manufacturer on a site that used to be vineyards in the 19th century. The brand name is Merul and reds are impressive, especially Reserve Merlot with its lovely, pure, crushed blackberry fruit and fine-grained tannins, and the rich, damson notes of Reserve Mavrud from their own still youthful vines. Levent Wine House A small winery in the north near Rousse, focussing on whites, especially Chardonnay but decent nicely balanced, drinkable and not over-extracted reds too. Lovico Suhindol A name familiar to the UK from times past. Last year the winery celebrated its centenary and with a new young and clearly "switched on" winemaker in place and 300 ha of its own vines, it's in a good position to rebuild its reputation. Malkata Zvezda Another young winery in south Sakar in what is being claimed as Bulgaria's Cote D'Or. The owners are a dentist and a businessman who are aiming for high quality and limited volumes, making a promising start with their plummy supple Enigma Mavrud (available from Zelas.co.uk). Vinex Slavyantsi Rather a concrete block of a communist era winery from the outside, but its location in the Valley of the Roses puts it in the heart of white wine country, and that's what the winery is undoubtedly best at. Bright clean varietal whites and blends are good value, and the winery's Leva blend (of Chardonnay, Muscat and Dimiat) does extremely well in Scandinavia. The winery, in partnership with its Swedish importer has also set up a charitable body, the Leva foundation, to support the children of local Roma families who work in the vineyards, and encourage them into education. This is by no means an exhaustive picture of Bulgaria and I still have a list of other wineries to visit and explore further next time I head over there. The industry continues to change rapidly, though in fact it's had little choice about reinventing itself, with the loss of both western markets and more recently the collapse of the high volume, unfussy Russian market. If I had a crystal ball, I reckon I'd be seeing a smaller but higher quality industry emerging from today's "interesting times." ROMANIA Cramele Recas – Sola Quinta 2012. This enormous winery is owned by British expats Philip and Elvira Cox, and producing an eye watering 10 million bottles a year, but it seems it is good enough for Gordon Ramsay. Around £13 a bottle, this white wine is a blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Muscat, and two local grapes, Feteasca Regala and Feteasca Neagra. It was a awarded a bronze medal at the 2013 decanter World Wine Awards. Dulce Closer to home, local wine store Winesolutions, based in Wellington, have recently introduced their own label range of 5 'Dulce' wines, which include a fruity Romanian red, Dulce Imbratisare [Sweet Embrace]; Dulce Claritate [Sweet clarity] Sauvignon blanc; Dulce Noua vieti [Sweet nine lives] Merlot; Dulce Roseira, a sweet rosé, all at £10 a bottle.
Reported by This is 13 hours ago.
This is Bath -- Chef and wine examiner Linda Vijeh talks wins from Eastern Europe. I am of an age, sadly, to recall Bull's Blood, a famous Hungarian wine, much loved during the early 1970s by the cheap and cheerful brigade. This is unfortunately no longer the case, where a bottle will now require you to stump up something in the region of £11. Amid the recent furore over the fear of an influx of Bulgarians and Romanians into the UK this year, as Monty Python would say, I always like to look on the bright side of life, especially where wine is concerned. Not previously known for producing wines of any great quality, both Romania and Bulgaria, along with other Eastern European countries, have made every effort to up their game in the last few years. There was a distinct shift away from using indigenous grape varieties such as Mavrud and Rubin, mostly unheard of over here, and often unpronounceable. However, with a continuing interest in new discoveries, wine lovers are beginning to explore with more open minds. With an eye to the Western European market, as their ties to Russia begin to loosen a little, canny Eastern European winemakers have moved towards significant plantings of old familiar favourites, Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnaym often mixing the old and new varieties into acceptable, palatable blends. Whilst the quality of most Bulgarian and Romanian wines have yet to match up to the finest on offer from Spain, Italy or France, there is much to be said for those of us trying to eke out our hard earned cash a little further, in experimenting with their wines; both countries are of course now popular destinations for second home buyers. Good for quaffing with a moderate degree of gay abandon, even the best of these won't break the bank, and if you are looking for something a little different, they may just be the ticket. Available at most major supermarkets, or online. BULGARIA I read with interest that in the 1990s Bulgaria's Cabernet Sauvignon was Sainsbury's best selling wine, and then it all went downhill, but only for a while. Here's a few more to look out for. Domaine Boyar – Deer Point Cabernet Sauvignon, 2012 - £6.75 Discovery Series Merlot, 2012 - blackberry, plum, cassis - £6.99 Domaine Boyar, 2012 Peach Garden Chardonnay, Thracian Valley £6.99, Château de Val Bessa Valley, Eniro stocked by Waitrose. £10 Edoardo Miroglio seems to be a name to watch, producing a wide selection of quality wines in the £10-£20 range. Try the 2009 EM Pinot Noir, Thracian Valley at £13.95 Castra Rubra Version Conception 2009 Conception is a wine, born from the perfect combination of three grapes; Cabernet Sauvignon, Mavrud and Syrah. The aromas of blackberries, typical of the three types of grape, complement one another and create a feeling of exceptional balance in the taste. Temptation 2009 Temptation is an extremely mighty wine where two grapes of Cabernet Sauvignon and Mavrud are combined and complement one another in a unique way. The blackberry aroma of the Mavrud combined with the pepper tones of Cabernet pass into a memorising finish. Version Plaisir Divin 2009 – Cabernet Sauvignon Plaisir Divin Cabernet Sauvignon is a twin selection from our own vineyards in the village of Pravoslaven. The wine is distinguished for its strong body, balanced oak, mild and harmonious finish. Version Plaisir Divin 2009 – Syrah Plaisir Divin Syrah is a wine with a dense well-settled down colour and an aroma of cherries and spices. The body is smooth and well-structured offering a classical representation of a European style of Syrah. Diverse Sauvignon Blanc 2010 Diverse Sauvignon Blanc is an interesting wine with a well developed grassy aroma of nettle, touches of citrus fruits, passion fruit and grapefruit, which is also savoured in the prolonged and memorising finish. Diverse Chardonnay 2010 Diverse Chardonnay is an elegant wine, with a pleasant sporty freshness and delicate oak flavour which is integrated in a young body. Damianitza Run by magazine publisher Philip Harmandjiev, who came as a temporary manager and got hooked. The winery is in the warm Struma Valley in the southwest, where local broad-leaved Melnik reigns. Merlot- based Redark was one of Bulgaria's first icon wines, and No Man's Land (especially the vibrant rosé made from broad-leaved Melnik) is consistently good. Uniqato is the label to seek out for benchmark examples of local Rubin and early Melnik. Logodaj Also located in the warm Struma valley. The winemaker has been very much influenced by his time in Pomerol with his Flagship Hypnose Reserve, but is also passionate about local varieties especially early Melnik (actually across of broad leaved Melnik with Valdiguie) and Rubin, making some of the country's best examples of both. Sarah Sarah A really garagiste producer, working with parcels of carefully selected grapes and rented winery space. Owner Ivo Genowski is a Bulgarian based in Germany, who ultimately plans his own vineyards but as he points out "planting vines is almost like getting married - mistakes are hard to change and last along time." Whites are decent but the real stars are the reds: brambly yet fine Bin 41 Merlot and gorgeous Privat - a harmonious, intense and lingering blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Mavrud. Ivo's luscious snow wine made from frozen Mavrud grapes has to be one of the most unusual wines I've ever tasted, but delicious. Terra Tangra Bulgaria's only certified organic vineyards so far. Owner Emil Raychev was previously a vegetable grower and now has 300 ha on the slopes of the famous Sakar Mountains. Terra Tangra's wines are well made and always show the winery's hallmark rich, ripe softness, though they tend to have high alcohol. Best is the single barrel selection, but also look out for the velvety, ripe Merlot Reserve from Zelas.co.uk Rumelia A new investment near Panagyurishte by a textile manufacturer on a site that used to be vineyards in the 19th century. The brand name is Merul and reds are impressive, especially Reserve Merlot with its lovely, pure, crushed blackberry fruit and fine-grained tannins, and the rich, damson notes of Reserve Mavrud from their own still youthful vines. Levent Wine House A small winery in the north near Rousse, focussing on whites, especially Chardonnay but decent nicely balanced, drinkable and not over-extracted reds too. Lovico Suhindol A name familiar to the UK from times past. Last year the winery celebrated its centenary and with a new young and clearly "switched on" winemaker in place and 300 ha of its own vines, it's in a good position to rebuild its reputation. Malkata Zvezda Another young winery in south Sakar in what is being claimed as Bulgaria's Cote D'Or. The owners are a dentist and a businessman who are aiming for high quality and limited volumes, making a promising start with their plummy supple Enigma Mavrud (available from Zelas.co.uk). Vinex Slavyantsi Rather a concrete block of a communist era winery from the outside, but its location in the Valley of the Roses puts it in the heart of white wine country, and that's what the winery is undoubtedly best at. Bright clean varietal whites and blends are good value, and the winery's Leva blend (of Chardonnay, Muscat and Dimiat) does extremely well in Scandinavia. The winery, in partnership with its Swedish importer has also set up a charitable body, the Leva foundation, to support the children of local Roma families who work in the vineyards, and encourage them into education. This is by no means an exhaustive picture of Bulgaria and I still have a list of other wineries to visit and explore further next time I head over there. The industry continues to change rapidly, though in fact it's had little choice about reinventing itself, with the loss of both western markets and more recently the collapse of the high volume, unfussy Russian market. If I had a crystal ball, I reckon I'd be seeing a smaller but higher quality industry emerging from today's "interesting times." ROMANIA Cramele Recas – Sola Quinta 2012. This enormous winery is owned by British expats Philip and Elvira Cox, and producing an eye watering 10 million bottles a year, but it seems it is good enough for Gordon Ramsay. Around £13 a bottle, this white wine is a blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Muscat, and two local grapes, Feteasca Regala and Feteasca Neagra. It was a awarded a bronze medal at the 2013 decanter World Wine Awards. Dulce Closer to home, local wine store Winesolutions, based in Wellington, have recently introduced their own label range of 5 'Dulce' wines, which include a fruity Romanian red, Dulce Imbratisare [Sweet Embrace]; Dulce Claritate [Sweet clarity] Sauvignon blanc; Dulce Noua vieti [Sweet nine lives] Merlot; Dulce Roseira, a sweet rosé, all at £10 a bottle.
Reported by This is 13 hours ago.